Srinagar Travel Guide

Srinagar the summer capital of Kashmir stands on Dal Lake and the picturesque Jhelum River. Srinagar is a city with a distinctly central Asian flavour; when you head south from Srinagar it is always referred to as ‘returning to India’. The old city is in the vicinity of Hari Prabat Hill and includes the labyrinth of alleyways mosques and houses that constitute the commercial heart of the city. The more modern part of the city is farther up the Jhelum River (above its seven bridges) which sweeps through Srinagar. Raja Pravarasen built the city in the 6th century. Its name has several possible derivations : Suryanagar ( the City of Surya the Sun god) or Srinagar-fortunate or even ‘beautiful ‘ city. Despite the name the beauty of Kashmir has never been reflected in that of its main town.

This place is at once a collection of images: a son et lumiere that tells the story of love of the Mughal emperors for this paradise vale; deep green rice fields and river bridges of gardens in bloom and lakes rimmed by houseboats; at once summer capital of the state business centre and holiday resort. Srinagar is as much imagination as it is fact; for every season offers new vistas to this city of great antiquity. Spring breathes life again into a frozen world and the air is heady with the fragrance of a million flower that blossom on trees shrubs and creepers. Summer heightens the effect and autumn is poignant in its colours of warm introspection. Winter brings with it snow sometimes the Dal Lake freezes and beneath a leaden sky roasted  chestnuts turn the atmosphere aromatic with the promise of warmth and comfort .

The river Jhelum and Dal and Nagin lakes dominate Srinagar and its life and activities. The city is divided in two by the river Jhelum that is crossed by a number of bridges (kadal). Here lush wild gardens of Lotus and Waterlily flowers amidst bustling lanes.

By the lakeside spread the gardens of the Mughals in patterned beauty. And the people moved with a tranquility borne of a history laden pulse activity. The famous Mughal gardens including the Shalimar Bagh and Nishat Bagh are on the far (east ) side of Dal Lake. NB: Today Srinagar has a heavy military  presence and dusk-to-dawn curfews are not uncommon . If you’ve longed for the delights of a houseboat holiday now is the time to try one out.

Srinagar  is a unique city because of its lakes-Dal Nagin and Anchar. The river Jhelum also flows through the centre of the city.The Dal Srinagar’s largest lake has the most number of houseboats followed by the Nagin and the Jhelum. As a general rule houseboats in the Dal are of all categories from deluxe through to D class while those in the Nagin are largely luxury  class and those in the Jhelum largely economy  class. This however is a generalization.Most houseboats on the Nagin and the Jhelum are situated on the banks of the lake and can be accessed directly from land without the help of a Shikara while all those on the Dal require a Shikara to get to reach them.Most houseboats on the Dal are situated in long straggling rows some face the Boulevard Srinagar’s most exciting address while others are situated singly or in groups of two’s and three’s .

The location of a houseboat tells us nothing about its class but before checking into one there are a few factors which you may like to consider. A honeymoon couple may choose a houseboat with few, if any close neighbours. To them it will be an advantage to stay in the interior of the lake accessible by a half hour long Shikara ride.

A family with young children on the other hand may find themselves better served in an area which overlooks the Bouleavard where a crossing takes just five minutes. When your houseboat is in a busy area of the Dal it is enjoyable just to sit on the balcony and watch the world row by. Each houseboat has anything between two and four bedrooms in it with attached bathrooms and a common sitting and dining room. The charges of a houseboat always include all meals and a certain number of crossings by Shikara to an from the houseboat. Houseboats offer far more personalized service than hotels. On the other hand fellow guests at the same houseboat tend to interact much more than if they were staying at the same hotel. Which is why houseboats are ideal for a large group of eight or more adults.

The Dal is famous not only for its beauty but for its vibrance. It sustains within its periphery a life that is unique anywhere in the world. The houseboat and Shikara communities have lived for centuries on the Dal and so complete is their infrastructure on the lake that they never have to step on land! Doctors, tailors, bakers-you’ll see them all in tiny wooden shops on the lake near picturesque vegetable and acres of lotus gardens.A Shikara ride is one of the most soothing relaxing aspects of a holiday in Kashmir. It can take upon an hour to see the slights of the Dal. Visits to handicraft shops within the periphery of the lake; or a whole day trip to visit important city landmarks can be organized on the Shikara.Because the Dal is so central to the landscape of Srinagar many places of tourist interest have over the ages been built in its vicinity. Nishat and Shalimar gardens as well as Hazratbal mosque are directly accessible by Shikara.

Places of attraction

Pather Masjid(1623): 6 kms. This stone mosque is the heart of the city opposite the Shah Hamdan Mosque. It was built for the empress Nur Jahan and renamed Shahi Mosque it was then mainly reserved for the prayers of Shiv Muslims.

Shah Hamdan Mosque: 5 kms. Situated on the banks of the river Jhelum this is one of the oldest mosques in the city. It has fine papier mache work on its walls and ceilings.

Jamia Masjid: 5 kms. Originally built by Sultan in 1400 AD and enlarged by his son Zain-ul-Abidin it is a typical example of Indo-Saracenic architecture. Destroyed thrice by fire and rebuilt each time the present mosque was repaired during the reign of the Dogra  Maharaja Pratap Singh.

Hari Parbat Fort: 5 kms. The hill of Sharika in the north-eastern part of Srinagar is considered sacred of Hindus. It is surmounted by an 18th century fort constructed by Atta Mohammad Khan an Afghan governor. The wall around the hill was built by Akbar in 1592-98 AD.
There are almond orchards which make a lovely sight. Permission to visit the Fort is issued by the State Archaeological Department Lalmandi Square.
Legend suggests that this hill was once a lake as large as a sea inhabited by the abominable demon Jalobhava. The gods called on Sati Mata for help who taking the form of a bird dropped a pebble on the demon’s head. The pebble increased in size as it fell and crushed him. Hari Parbat is revered as that pebble and it became the home for all 33 crore (330 million) gods of the Hindu pantheon.

Nagin Lake : 8 kms. The jewel in the ring, the smallest but the most lovely part of Dal Lake. Separated  by a causeway and only a short distance from Hazratbal its deep blue waters encircled by a ring of green trees has been credited for its name. There is a club here and facilities include water-skiing and swimming.

Hazratbal: 9 kms. Hazratbal shrines is situated on the western shore of the Dal Lake opposite Nishat Bagh and commands grand view of the lake and mountain beyond. It has a special sanctity because a sacred hair of the Prophet Mohammad is preserved here. This is displayed to the public on special occasions.
Just beyond is the Nazim Bagh (Garden of the morning breeze) one of the earliest Mughal Gardens and attributed to Akbar.

Shalimar Bagh: A channel extends up to their edge. Jahangir builds this for his wife Nur Jahan; the gardens are distinguished by a series of terraces linked by a water channel. These are surrounded by decorative pools which can only be reached by stepping-stones. The uppermost pavilion has elegant black marble pillars and niches in the walls for flowers during the day and candles or lamps at night. Harwan runs through the middle of the garden.
The 4th terrace is by far the best and was once reserved for royal ladies. India Tourism Development Corporation runs a Son-et-Lumierce show in this garden from May to October.

Harwan: 19kms. On the hillside south of the village remarkable remains of ancient ornamented tile pavements from the Buddhist period have come to light. The tiles indicate the dresses of the people such as loose trousers Turkoman caps or close fitting turbans and large ear-rings which reveal a Central Asian influence.

Nishat Bagh: 11 kms. Situated on the banks of the Dal Lake with the Zabarwan  mountains as its backdrop this ‘garden of bliss’ commands a magnificent view of the lake and the snowcapped  Pir Panjal mountain range which stands far away to the west of the valley. Nishat was designed in 1633 AD by Asaf Khan, brother of Nur Jehan.

Cheshma Shahi: 9 kms. A tastefully laid garden in terrace with a spring of cool refreshing digestive waters. The original garden was laid out by Shah Jehan in 1632 AD. The Cheshma Shahi-Pari Mahal are has been developed into a Tourist Village. The gardens are illuminated by night and command a magnificent view of the Dal Lake below and the surrounding mountain ranges. Lodging and boarding facilities and a shopping complex are available.

Pari Mahal: 11 kms. Once a Buddhist monastery it was converted into a school of astrology by Dara Shokoh the eldest son of Mughal Emperor Shah Jehan. It is situated on the spur of a mountain overlooking the Dal lake. It has a well laid out spacious garden in front and is connected at night.

Shankaracharya Temple : 5 kms. One thousand feet above the city the temple is located on a hill also known as Takht-I-Sulaiman. Most authorities agree that the first edifice on this site was built by Jaluka the son of Emperor Ashoka around 200 BC. The low enclosing wall and the plinth of the existing temple is what has remained of the old temple. The present structure the interior of which is 4.3 meters in diameter is said to have been built by an unknown Hindu devotee during the reign of Emperor Jehangir. The temple offers a magnificent view of the valley and the snowy peaks of the Pir Panjal  range.

Dal Lake : 0.5 kms. This lovely lake lies to east of the city at the foot of the Shrindhara (Zabarwan) mountain. The Shankaracharya hill (Takht-I-Sulaiman) is to the south and Hari Parbat on its west. The lake is 6.3 kms. and is divided by a causeway into four parts: Gagribal ,Lokutdal, Boddal and Nagin. Lokutdal and Boddal each have an island in the centre called Rup Lank and Sona Lank respectively. Rup Lank is also known as Char Chinari. The small islands are willow covered while round the lakes are groves of Chinnar poplar and willow.

Museums

Pratap Singh Museum : Lal Mandi ( between Amira Kadal and Zero Bridge) free
(Small donation is appreciated) 1000-1700 closed Monday Friday lunchtime. There is a fine collection of miniature paintings, weapons, tapestries and sculpture, rather poorly displayed.

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